With some 1.2 billion followers around the globe, the Catholic Church represents the largest, most populous religion in the world. The church runs over 200,000 schools, more than a quarter of the world’s healthcare facilities, and with increasing numbers of new devotees in Asia and Africa, it seems Catholicism is itself in rude health. Al-Jazeera’s Empire travels to Rome, the spiritual home of the world’s oldest Christian denomination to reveal, on deeper examination, a more complex picture of a faith in flux and a church at a crossroads.